How to Winterise a Small Sailing Dinghy

Why Winterising Matters for a Small Dinghy

A small sailing dinghy is a wonderfully simple craft, but that simplicity is exactly why a little neglect in the colder months can prove expensive. Water trapped in a bilge, a cover flapping loose in a January gale, or a trailer tyre left sitting on soggy ground will all quietly do damage while you are indoors with a mug of tea. The good news is that winterising a dinghy takes a single weekend, and most of the work is nothing more than cleaning, checking and putting things away properly.

This routine suits dinghies kept in a garden, on a driveway, in a dinghy park or at a sailing club. Work through it in order and you will be ready to launch the moment the first decent spring breeze arrives.

Choose Where and How She Will Sit

Before you touch a sponge, decide where the boat will live for the winter. A dinghy left under trees will collect leaves, sap and bird mess, and a boat sitting directly on wet ground will suffer underneath. If you can, store her indoors, in a garage or shed. If not, pick the most sheltered, well-drained spot you have.

• Store the hull on its road trailer or a proper cradle, never directly on grass or bare earth.
• If she must sit outside, raise the trailer hitch or chock the wheels so water runs off the deck rather than pooling.
• Let the hull tilt very slightly aft so any rain that finds its way in drains towards the bung.
• Slacken the rigging tension if the mast stays up, or take the mast down altogether for a small boat.
• Cover trailer tyres or park on hard standing; damp tyres perish quickly in cold weather.

Clean Her Properly From Top to Bottom

Grime holds moisture, and moisture is the enemy of gelcoat, varnish and metal fittings. Give the whole boat a thorough wash with fresh water and a mild detergent before you put anything away.

Work from the top down. Rinse the mast, boom and foils first, then the deck, then the hull, finishing with the inside of the boat. Pay particular attention to the corners of the cockpit, the area around the centreboard case, and anywhere sand tends to gather. A soft brush is fine for the hull, but keep abrasive pads away from gelcoat and windows.

• Remove the outboard, oars, sails, foils, rudder and any loose equipment before washing.
• Flush the centreboard case and bailers with fresh water to shift grit and salt.
• Wipe down metal fittings with a light oil or a proprietary protectant.
• Clean and dry the trailer as well, then touch up any rust spots before they spread.
• Let everything dry completely in the open air before it goes back in or under cover.

Look After Sails, Foils and Fittings

Sails are the most valuable soft items on board and the easiest to ruin through careless storage. Do not simply screw them into a bag damp. Lay them out, brush off any dried salt or grit, and check the stitching and corner patches while you have them flat.

Once dry, fold them loosely along the seams. Rolling a mainsail around a tube rather than creasing it repeatedly along the same line will extend its life noticeably. Store sails somewhere dry, off the floor, and away from mice, which are remarkably fond of sail bags in a shed.

Foils, rudders and centreboards should be washed, dried and stored flat or stood upright out of the sun. Inspect the tips for chips, and repair any dings with epoxy filler before the damage takes on water. Check shackles, cleats, blocks, forestay and shrouds for wear, and note anything that needs replacing so you can order parts over the winter rather than in a hurry in April.

Engine, Battery and Fuel

If your dinghy carries a small outboard, treat it as its own little project. Run the engine briefly, then flush it with fresh water according to your manual and let it drain fully. Empty the fuel tank or add a fuel stabiliser, depending on the type of engine, and store the unit upright in a dry place.

• Remove the battery if there is one, charge it fully and store it somewhere frost-free.
• Check the charge every month or so and top it up as needed.
• Grease the propeller shaft and check the anode if the engine is a four-stroke with a wet sump.
• Drain the carburettor bowl on a two-stroke to prevent gummed fuel in spring.

Cover Her Well and Check Through the Winter

A cover that fits properly is worth more than any amount of guesswork. The aim is to keep rain out while letting air move. A tarpaulin draped over the boat and tied down hard will trap condensation, sag under the weight of rain and flap until it wears through the gelcoat, so take a little more care.

Use a breathable cover sized for your dinghy, or build a simple frame from timber or plastic pipe so the cover sits above the fittings rather than pressing on them. Tie it down securely, then check the ropes after the first real gale. If you cannot cover the boat, at least leave the bung out and the boat tilted so any water that gets in will drain.

Then, once a month, walk out and have a look. Clear leaves from the cover, check the ropes, and make sure the hull is not sitting in a puddle. A five-minute inspection in December can save you a fortnight of repairs in May.

A Short Checklist Before You Walk Away

Before you call it done, run through the basics one last time. The bung is out, the boat is tilted, the cover is secure, everything loose has been removed and stored, the battery is indoors and the trailer is chocked. Write down anything you noticed that needs fixing and keep the list somewhere you will find it in spring.

Winterising a dinghy is mostly about giving her a clean, dry, well-ventilated place to rest. Do that and she will reward you with an easy launch when the sailing weather returns.